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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:02 pm

whoa that is sick

I'm going to Kentucky in 5 days!
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Postby VHGisdead » Sun Apr 30, 2017 12:50 pm

RIP Ueli Steck :(
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Postby gazedo » Tue May 02, 2017 11:24 am

My friend from college wrote an obituary in the NYT on Ueli. I think it is a good read.

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/01/opinion/ueli-steck-falling-off-the-edge.html
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Postby gazedo » Tue May 02, 2017 11:25 am

On a more positive note, I went bigwalling in Red Rocks this last weekend. Here I am working pitch 5 of Crystal Dawn on minitrax.

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Postby variegated reality » Wed May 03, 2017 11:18 am

Daaaaamn. Very cool.
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Postby something sensible if » Wed May 03, 2017 11:50 am

yr living the dream gazedo

i've been more diligent about not getting injured this time around. i remember having elbow pain a lot when i was climbing in college. lotsa cool boulders around town to climb.
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Postby gazedo » Wed May 03, 2017 12:40 pm

going back this weekend. needless to say, my excitement level is very high.
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Postby VHGisdead » Wed May 10, 2017 10:49 pm

gazedo keep the pics coming

short trip to Kentucky was just what I needed. I have got to spend more time climbing outside
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Postby gazedo » Thu May 11, 2017 11:15 am

here is me being the fish getting fried. buffalo wall, red rocks.

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Postby dvr » Thu May 11, 2017 12:02 pm

That second pic is super cool.

Is it possible for a newer climber to have elbow pain that takes 5 months to subside? I bouldered pretty hard in Dec not quite fit enough for it and got some elbow pain. I haven't really climbed since. My previous forray into climbing I eased in great and was super happy with my bouldering after only a few months.

Bummer about ueli, his video running up the Eiger is legendary.
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Postby VHGisdead » Thu May 11, 2017 12:54 pm

holy shit gazedo that route sounds sick. you working toward freeing these pitches?
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Postby Kaputt » Thu May 11, 2017 1:01 pm

dvr wrote:That second pic is super cool.

Is it possible for a newer climber to have elbow pain that takes 5 months to subside? I bouldered pretty hard in Dec not quite fit enough for it and got some elbow pain. I haven't really climbed since. My previous forray into climbing I eased in great and was super happy with my bouldering after only a few months.

Bummer about ueli, his video running up the Eiger is legendary.


I got a lot of inner elbow pain when I first started and I could barely manage two sessions a week. I had to stop for like a month then it got better. I dunno I guess it depends on how hard you went in December?
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Postby gazedo » Thu May 11, 2017 1:07 pm

VHGisdead wrote:holy shit gazedo that route sounds sick. you working toward freeing these pitches?


yeah, working on it. although i don't know if i will make it back out this season since it will be hot soon and the wall bakes in the sun all morning. need to get a bit more efficient on the big walls with some practice this summer then hopefully come back in the fall. everything felt pretty doable except the crux pitch.
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Postby gazedo » Fri May 12, 2017 2:01 pm

going to go check out this bad boy next weekend. 400 foot cliff with no free routes on it yet but it looks like it has excellent potential. the approach options are pretty rough though. either 15 mile hike on a (sort of) trail or 5 mile straight up a mountain off trail, both have 5000' of elevation gain...

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Postby VHGisdead » Fri May 12, 2017 4:25 pm

so sick
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Postby variegated reality » Fri May 12, 2017 6:50 pm

gazedo wrote:going to go check out this bad boy next weekend. 400 foot cliff with no free routes on it yet but it looks like it has excellent potential. the approach options are pretty rough though. either 15 mile hike on a (sort of) trail or 5 mile straight up a mountain off trail, both have 5000' of elevation gain...

Image

Holy moly. Where is this?
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Postby dvr » Fri May 12, 2017 9:22 pm

Oh nice. Holla if you're in northern WY, I'm here for the summer.
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Postby gazedo » Sat May 13, 2017 1:19 am

Phils pecker wrote:Holy moly. Where is this?


very southwestern corner of sequoia national park.
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Postby something sensible if » Thu May 18, 2017 3:39 pm

first day top-rope soloing w/ two petzl micro traxions went so smooth, zero problems, felt safe. the only tricky part is switching to rappel at the top, that's probably just how it goes though. i am so stoked for my future of climbing outside whenever i feel like it right now.

the few people i talked to seemed intrigued and disturbed that i learned how to do everything online
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Postby gazedo » Thu May 18, 2017 3:50 pm

something sensible if wrote:first day top-rope soloing w/ two petzl micro traxions went so smooth, zero problems, felt safe. the only tricky part is switching to rappel at the top, that's probably just how it goes though. i am so stoked for my future of climbing outside whenever i feel like it right now.

the few people i talked to seemed intrigued and disturbed that i learned how to do everything online


have you been weighting the rope at the bottom of the cliff with a bag or fixing it to something more permanent? I think the devices slide a lot better when fixed to a cam or bolt but if you plan to continue up higher after going up, being able to pull a bag up behind you is nice.

i use a micro-grab extended to sit up on my chest (still connected to harness but held at chest height with a sling over the shoulder) then a microtrax at harness height. works really well for me. i like that the locking mechanism for the two devices are different and if i set up the slings right the micro-grab catches the fall, which is much easier to release from the locking position than a trax can be and doesn't get stuck if you slide it all the way up against a knot or something at the top of the rope.

i need to pick up some rope protectors so i can start self belaying on things that don't take quite as clean of a line. i recently got a 300' static line. when you set it up on the right cliff you can just climb forever, its so cool.
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Postby something sensible if » Thu May 18, 2017 4:12 pm

the longest route at the local crag is only 60 feet, so i have enough excess rope at the bottom for me to coil up and tie a knot around and let that act as a weight hanging a foot off the ground. the traxions were sliding up effortlessly and were catching just fine. i could drag the rope up at the top if there was more than one pitch, but there is not.

i had intended to use a chest harness as you described, but forgot it at home. however, because i have so much rope i am able to tie a figure 8 with bunny ears for the anchor and use a micro traxion on each of the two ropes that i get as a result. i realized that the chest harness is only necessary if you only have a single rope to keep the micro traxions from interfering with one another. one downside is that the locking mechanism is the same between the two traxions, but i saw enough people on the internet with lots of experience using two traxions so...it's probably OK.
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Postby something sensible if » Thu May 18, 2017 4:41 pm

yo i dunno how one could not love climbing if you're able to handle at least beginner routes
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Postby gazedo » Thu May 18, 2017 5:58 pm

Yeah, the two lines method is really nice if you have the rope to do it. Certainly preferable to having 1 rope being your single point of failure, which is pretty scary if you are really working on something and falling a lot and the rope is running over an edge without a protector.
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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Jun 03, 2017 1:09 pm

Honnold soloed Freerider
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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Jun 03, 2017 1:23 pm

jesus
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Postby gazedo » Sun Jun 04, 2017 4:06 pm

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Postby VHGisdead » Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:28 pm

Oh hell yes
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Postby VHGisdead » Sun Jun 04, 2017 10:09 pm

Bought this at the mall I'm gonna wear this at the mall.
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Postby gazedo » Sun Jun 04, 2017 10:15 pm

screw Bisharat and his misogynist writing.

(not trying to undermine Alex here)
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Postby VHGisdead » Sun Jun 04, 2017 10:20 pm

I think I missed that piece or pieces, unless it's just a strain that runs through most of his stuff that I haven't picked up on?
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