Climbing

Let's talk Aguachile Alley

Postby gazedo » Tue May 19, 2020 4:10 pm

VHGisdead wrote:I don't even think fitness gyms should be open in most places but beyond that I can't help but feel like climbing gyms are kind of sneaking by on their "gym" status. It is impossible to implement the types of sanitation protocols that are being recommended or required at typical gyms and the type of activity that happens in them seems to be pretty bad from a disease prevention perspective.


100% agree. honestly, it is bordering on idiotic to think a climbing gym could avoid becoming a vector for spread (at least in the vast, vast majority of places in our country right now).
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Postby brittle » Wed Jun 17, 2020 12:48 pm

So, my gym is open (found out when they charged me for June last week). They're known as the progressive, inclusive, everything-positive gym, so I figured if anyone could open safely it'd be them.

They only allow 20 people at a time for a two hour block, three times a day, and then sanitize in between. You have to sanitize any time you move from problem to problem and of course, masks 100% of the time.

It felt safer than a grocery store.

But after spending the last three months doing Hangboards and push-ups, I'm officially a MUCH better climber than I was in March. I flashed everything up to the v5s and found myself being about to do tough, slow reaches on moves that I would have just swatted at and prayed last time I climbed.

If felt so fucking good.

Also people were talking to me about beta and move names and a bunch of other shit I didn't have any clue about, so I must have looked p legit.
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Postby gazedo » Wed Jun 17, 2020 1:54 pm

brittle wrote:So, my gym is open (found out when they charged me for June last week). They're known as the progressive, inclusive, everything-positive gym, so I figured if anyone could open safely it'd be them.

They only allow 20 people at a time for a two hour block, three times a day, and then sanitize in between. You have to sanitize any time you move from problem to problem and of course, masks 100% of the time.

It felt safer than a grocery store.

But after spending the last three months doing Hangboards and push-ups, I'm officially a MUCH better climber than I was in March. I flashed everything up to the v5s and found myself being about to do tough, slow reaches on moves that I would have just swatted at and prayed last time I climbed.

If felt so fucking good.

Also people were talking to me about beta and move names and a bunch of other shit I didn't have any clue about, so I must have looked p legit.


glad you are able to get some proper climbing in and have it feel safe.

as the situation rapidly deteriorates here in Arizona, it is more and more wild to me that the climbing gym is open and lets people do things like climb without a mask on.
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Postby brittle » Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:04 pm

Yeah, anytime you leave Denver City limits people are straight up malignant about doing their part, but where I live and recreate, it feels same as it ever was.

I'd probably go crazy if I wasn't surrounded by serious, good-intentioned people.
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Postby gazedo » Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:33 pm

brittle wrote:I'd probably go crazy if I wasn't surrounded by serious, good-intentioned people.


Pretty much anytime I leave the house to do things like grocery shop or curbside pickup, I feel like I am going crazy. Like everyone else is in some alternative reality that I am not aware of. Fortunately my co-workers are all being great about things and we are able to make occasional trips to work for essential tasks to keep things moving. But we are all still at home 95% of the time. Having at least a few other people you know take things seriously noticeably helps with the mental health.

My other big mental health thing is I have still been going outside regularly. Been climbing with one friend occasionally who I know is also being careful, otherwise just been climbing by myself. Lots of climbing in northern Arizona that does not have any publicly available information so it is actually very easy to avoid people. I don't even worry about other people touching holds when I am not there since I haven't seen another climber (besides my one friend) at the rocks in the last three months. I think I would actually be going insane if I never left the house to climb.
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Postby gazedo » Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:38 pm

brittle wrote:But after spending the last three months doing Hangboards and push-ups, I'm officially a MUCH better climber than I was in March.


I am also somehow climbing better than I have for years. Even though my alcohol consumption has gone up and I spend the majority of my time at home snacking, I have somehow lost weight in stay-at-home. The only thing I can think of is not commuting 100+ miles a week on my bike has made me lose lower body muscle.

I am actually not sure I ever need to return to commercial gyms, at least to the world where I am paying for an annual membership somewhere. I might just commit to outside climbing + occasional hangboarding.
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Postby Muad'dib bin Stiltzkin » Wed Jun 17, 2020 2:59 pm

I feel like a lot of climber bodies will have benefitted from rest their tendons needed that they just ignored for months or years
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Postby Muad'dib bin Stiltzkin » Sat Aug 01, 2020 3:53 pm

My willpower cracked and I went to the gym. Felt good to climb, but climbing in a mask is terrible. Had to step outside a few times to catch my breath, which I think (rightfully) freaked the staff a lil. Most people wore worthless non masks that might as well be nothing. Still it was a big facility with high, open ceilings with good circulation and distancing was easy. Felt safe ish. Probably won't do it again anytime soon cause how much I hated wearing a mask while climbing, but felt good to get an endorphin rush.
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Postby gazedo » Tue Sep 08, 2020 10:35 am

Arizona is getting the edge of this weather system sweeping down the Rockies. Lots of snow forecasted in Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico. Looks like the lows will make it down to 35 in Flagstaff here. So excited for fall! My hangboard is outside on the carport here in Phoenix and I have used it only once since mid-July. Even if I wake up at 6 am, it is 90 degrees and I have no motivation to exercise in that. High tomorrow is forecasted to be 91! Low of 67!!!! :ryan: :ryan: :ryan:
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Postby gazedo » Tue Sep 08, 2020 10:41 am

Meanwhile I went climbing outside of LA this weekend and it was 88 degrees at 8000 feet. Couldn't try hard on anything but it was nice to be outside until the wind direction changed and the fire in the background brought smoke our way.

Image
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Postby woozy ducks » Thu Jan 07, 2021 10:31 am

anyone been following the k2 stuff? first winter climb

i guess there's like 70 people there. it seemed like a shitshow waiting to happen like the 96 everest book-writing-fiasco. then bad weather came in and sent everyone down. there's a 19yo woman there trying to climb it.

https://explorersweb.com/2021/01/07/k2-roundup-from-a-frigid-base-camp/

obligatory 'most of these people are rich assholes' comment
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Postby vhg » Thu Jan 07, 2021 11:05 am

huh, sure haven't. What a circus.

Colin O'Brady sounds like a real piece of shit
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Postby gazedo » Sat Jan 16, 2021 10:07 am

sounds like the sherpa/nepalese team did it. unclear if supplemental oxygen was used? anyone seeing if that is the case?
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Postby woozy ducks » Mon Jan 18, 2021 1:13 pm

at least one did not use oxygen (only Red Bull)
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Postby gazedo » Mon Jan 18, 2021 10:03 pm

yeah, seeing it now. very impressive.

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Postby vhg » Wed Jan 20, 2021 6:22 pm

Cesare Maestri died
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Postby woozy ducks » Wed Jan 20, 2021 11:49 pm

We may never know......
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Postby gazedo » Thu Feb 04, 2021 8:42 pm

i thought this was quite good

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Postby gazedo » Sat May 29, 2021 5:16 pm

moving to new mexico this summer. bummed to be leaving the roofs of northern AZ but petty excited about being back in the Rockies.
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Postby woozy ducks » Mon Jun 21, 2021 3:13 pm

holy fuck. the bouldering gym i used to goto is $25 for a day pass now
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Postby gazedo » Wed Jun 23, 2021 6:28 pm

woozy ducks wrote:holy fuck. the bouldering gym i used to goto is $25 for a day pass now


climbing gyms are so expensive. i am excited to build a home wall once i move and actually just never have to go to the gym again.
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Postby woozy ducks » Thu Jun 24, 2021 3:49 pm

I've gone to a gym twice this week to use the auto-belays, stayed on 5.6-5.9s and downclimbed everything. I haven't climbed in a couple years and had it happen before where I go too much too soon and mess up my elbow. It was fun!
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Postby gazedo » Tue Jul 06, 2021 11:19 pm

i can't believe i am 5 days away from living in my dream climbing state :ryan: :ryan: :ryan:
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Postby robespierre » Sun Sep 19, 2021 6:00 pm

got into bouldering in a big way over the last year during covid. thankfully my work covers 60% of the cost of an annual membership so it hasn't been too exorbitant

i remember climbing one time in my first year of university and absolutely loving it but gave up on it quickly because i had no one to go with and i had no idea about bouldering. i wish i had been doing it all along!

i live within an hour of a major climbing area so i'm hoping to take a sport climbing course at the beginning of next season and start exploring
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Postby gazedo » Wed Sep 22, 2021 2:57 pm

robespierre wrote:i live within an hour of a major climbing area so i'm hoping to take a sport climbing course at the beginning of next season and start exploring


what is your local zone if you don't mind sharing?
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Postby something sensible if » Mon Sep 27, 2021 7:47 pm

finally ponied up for a gym membership, went climbing today, didn't get injured, bouldering area was larger than i thought it would be, things are looking up
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Postby draw » Wed Oct 06, 2021 11:33 am

Is there a good way to prepare your hands for 2 and 1 finger pockets? I'd estimate 80% of my hand injuries are caused by these. They rarely feel too hard to do as I'm doing them (or I'd bail), but then suddenly just "snaps" and I strain a tendon. Obviously I can just not do them, which is plan A unless there's a good approach or training method
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Postby warmjets » Wed Oct 06, 2021 11:35 am

gazedo wrote:i can't believe i am 5 days away from living in my dream climbing state :ryan: :ryan: :ryan:


florida? very nice
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Postby Muad'dib bin Stiltzkin » Sat Oct 09, 2021 9:07 am

draw wrote:Is there a good way to prepare your hands for 2 and 1 finger pockets? I'd estimate 80% of my hand injuries are caused by these. They rarely feel too hard to do as I'm doing them (or I'd bail), but then suddenly just "snaps" and I strain a tendon. Obviously I can just not do them, which is plan A unless there's a good approach or training method

doing more open hand grip climbing is good for this, you can either just get in the habit of trying not to full crimp in the gym ever or just try to stay on the wall as long as possible on something steepish and only use open hand. or do hangboarding on pockets but that can aggravate injuries

if it is happening frequently, especially the snapping part, it may unfortunately be a case of an injury not healing right and you might need to take some time off climbing to fully heal
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Postby Muad'dib bin Stiltzkin » Mon Oct 11, 2021 7:55 pm

Anyone have any luck meeting climbing partners online? I posted a thing on mountain project looking for partners for rumney. Lucked out today, met a guy who knew the place super well and he put up draws on a bunch of good shit and had a great day out. Tomorrow I'm meeting someone probably not as experienced, hope it goes well.
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