Climbing

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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Apr 28, 2012 3:17 pm

on our very first real lead with no top rope and me belaying, my buddy (who outweighs me by at least 30 lbs) took a huge unplanned fall, like 20+ feet. It was crazy
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:04 pm

Did you swing? Was it awesome?

Jargon wise we call those whippers.
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:07 pm

Just sort of started trying to get back into climbing after 3 blown tendons and a broken arm. I can't really crank on crimps at all at this point, and pulling really hard on my left arm hurts like hell, but I'm doin alright on v3/4 plastic right now. I know sports the best way to get better but I just can't get psyched on ropes. Gym has auto-belays now tho so maybe I'll just run laps on 5.10.

Super jealous that you're going to the red tho, post pics ITT.


Here's a video of some FA's my friend Hayden did in Vermont recently for psych.

shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:09 pm

I wouldn't call mine a whipper but his was, I just took a pretty short planned fall from not far above the last clip. Still scary as hell. Flying into the air when I caught him was sweet.
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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:11 pm

Spotlight Kid wrote:Just sort of started trying to get back into climbing after 3 blown tendons and a broken arm. I can't really crank on crimps at all at this point, and pulling really hard on my left arm hurts like hell, but I'm doin alright on v3/4 plastic right now. I know sports the best way to get better but I just can't get psyched on ropes. Gym has auto-belays now tho so maybe I'll just run laps on 5.10.

Super jealous that you're going to the red tho, post pics ITT.


will do. We'll be staying small on like 5.7s or 8s because 3 of the 4 of us have never climbed outside, let alone leading outside. Gonna go do some top roping tomorrow though at a place closer to here.
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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:15 pm

Call Me Maybe is def the best soundtrack for sick bouldering videos
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:11 am

That first problem Roof of Rumors is such a fucking beautiful pure line that I want to get psyched and strong and go to Maine just to do burns on it.
shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby mattstan » Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:46 am

I asked if there were any climbers over in the workout thread and then saw that there was a climbing thread on page 1. Durr.

Been using the wall at my gym about twice a week since November. Did my first 5.10a today.
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Postby Quixotic » Sun Apr 29, 2012 11:55 am

When my climbing pass ran out I was running v3s at my home gym (but v4/v5 at another gym, i'm assuming they have super soft grading). Anyway I'm leaving town so I'm not going to get a membership but my buddy hooked me up with a hangboard so I've just been doing hangboard workouts all the time for about a week now. I really really want to go outdoor but I'm not good buds with any of the dudes in my gym who go outdoor regularly.
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:32 pm

You don't really need to be buds, just ask nicely and someone will take you bouldering. Maybe the best part of climbing is how friendly the people are. Excluding those who live in Boulder, of course.
shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby pickles » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:39 pm

I'm a rookie (only climbed a couple of times and that was years ago) and my problem is finding someone to go with.

I guess I should start out by going to a rock climbing gym for classes and meeting people that way (or meetup.com), but it just feels like a ton of work to find a partner.

I wish I could just climb by myself without it being so unsafe. Bouldering might be an option, but I like heights and want that sensation of being off the ground.
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Postby Quixotic » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:46 pm

Yeah good advice; my friend who introduced me to climbing regularly goes outdoor even though she's basically a total beginner, just cos she's really social.

Pickles get a membership if you don't. Talk to other people and go to the gym when they do!
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Postby mattstan » Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:50 pm

Classes are a great social assist.
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Postby VHGisdead » Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:34 am

VHGisdead wrote:
Spotlight Kid wrote:Just sort of started trying to get back into climbing after 3 blown tendons and a broken arm. I can't really crank on crimps at all at this point, and pulling really hard on my left arm hurts like hell, but I'm doin alright on v3/4 plastic right now. I know sports the best way to get better but I just can't get psyched on ropes. Gym has auto-belays now tho so maybe I'll just run laps on 5.10.

Super jealous that you're going to the red tho, post pics ITT.


will do. We'll be staying small on like 5.7s or 8s because 3 of the 4 of us have never climbed outside, let alone leading outside. Gonna go do some top roping tomorrow though at a place closer to here.


did this, it was great. routes were short and it was hard, but we climbed all day and I'm sore all over today. Can't wait to get back in the gym a couple times and then go to the red in 2 weeks
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Wed May 02, 2012 9:54 am

Dropped from the last hold of a V5 at the gym yesterday on my onsite burn.

Getting psyyyyched.

My tendons hurt like ass today though.
shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby VHGisdead » Tue May 15, 2012 12:06 pm

Going to the Red tomorrow, going to absolutely crush some 5.7s on lead
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Postby VHGisdead » Tue May 15, 2012 12:10 pm

don't really know how to clean anchors yet, which is somewhat terrifying, but a guy at the gym offered to teach us tonight in his garage if we bring him beers
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Tue May 15, 2012 12:12 pm

It's really easy! But also completely terrifying. The first time you untie at the top of the climb and you're attached just by a 'beaner like 50 feet off the deck is like :shock: :shock: :shock:


just make sure you don't drop the rope.
shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby VHGisdead » Tue May 15, 2012 12:17 pm

I will not drop the rope. I am one with the rope. My hands are sweating right now.
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Tue May 15, 2012 12:19 pm

I mean if you do it's not a huge deal you just have to sit there, attached to the wall by just a single clip and webbing strand, while someone leads the entire climb again so that they can hand you the rope, so you can climb back down.
shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby VHGisdead » Tue May 15, 2012 12:20 pm

yeah and I'm the weakest climber in our group so if I lead something there will be someone else in the group who can rescue me while I shit my pants up there

in other news, here's some shit I won't be doing tomorrow:

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Postby Quixotic » Tue May 15, 2012 1:02 pm

Has anyone climbed in the Yukon before?

I'll be heading up there soon and I hear there's some decent bouldering. I'm kind of out of practice and at best I've done like v4, yall think it's worth bringing shoes / chalk / harness?

I'm doing field work for 2 months there but we'll undoubtedly be taking some days off, maybe I can get him into bouldering.
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Postby Quixotic » Tue May 15, 2012 1:04 pm

Actually I'd really like to do some lead / TR up there but unfortunately I doubt that's very likely.
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Postby VHGisdead » Thu May 17, 2012 11:43 am

Red was great. 4 of us went, we all led for the first time on some easy stuff and we got to climb a sweet 5.9 that's 75 feet long and a ton of fun. Hopefully we'll be going back in a week or 2. Weekdays seem pretty perfect, we never had to wait to climb and we were at a super popular wall.

Leading was scary as hell but I eased into it on an easy 5.7 with ledges to stand on at almost every clip. Cleaning and rappelling was also pretty damn scary but no issues there.

I'm hooked.
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Postby mattstan » Thu May 17, 2012 11:58 am

Niiice, can't wait to get into lead (need a few more months of practice / classes).
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Postby VHGisdead » Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:12 pm

Have gone to the Red twice now, going back for another day trip Wednesday. Hoping to get on a sweet long 10a but I will not be leading that. There's a great 9- that I just TR'd last time, I could see leading it maybe. I'll let you guys know if send any real sick shit.

I think my new lifetime goal is to climb something on this wall (at the Red) Image
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Postby VHGisdead » Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:16 pm

a mere 1 page ago I was ironically using climbing jargon and look at me now. Post about climbing in this thread.
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:08 am

Where do you live that you can go to the Red with such regularity.

You lucky bastard.
shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby VHGisdead » Tue Jun 05, 2012 12:14 am

Near cincinnati. It's a long day trip. If I weren't a grad student I'd have a job or something and not be able to do these weekday trips. Trying to take advantage of it while I'm still here.
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Postby VHGisdead » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:50 am

making steady but cautious progress. Led that 75-foot 5.9- a couple days ago (Send Me On My Way), TR'd a really awesome 10a of the same length (Rat Stew). Definitely still working through lead jitters. I get Elvis legs too much.
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