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Postby VHGisdead » Wed Oct 19, 2016 3:50 pm

lol

The original use of the term Beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format. This was actually a play on words, as Jack would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?"
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Postby Big Oil » Wed Oct 19, 2016 4:06 pm

VHGisdead wrote:I think it actually is short for ascend

don don
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Postby gazedo » Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:07 pm

Big Oil wrote:
VHGisdead wrote:I think it actually is short for ascend

don don


I have been climbing for 16 years and that was a major don don moment just now for me
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Postby gazedo » Mon Oct 24, 2016 2:04 pm

looks like v17 is a reality now.

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Postby Big Oil » Sat Oct 29, 2016 1:38 pm

Did a few more V3s yesterday, feeling p good :D

Spotlight Kid, just saw you are Bay Area. Where do you climb? I have pretty exclusively used Dogpatch Boulders so far. Gonna get into top-roping eventually.
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Postby gazedo » Sun Nov 13, 2016 2:45 pm

So stoked for Thanksgiving. Really looking forward to 10 days of not thinking about the state of our country every second of the day. Black Mountain (CA) -> Red Rocks (NV) -> Fry Canyon (UT) -> Durango (CO) -> Ortega Mountains (NM) -> Roy (NM) -> Flagstaff (AZ).
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Postby dusky » Thu Nov 17, 2016 3:52 pm

Holy crap. I climbed for the first time in 3 months after being out of the country/recovering from a minor injury, and it nearly felt like climbing for my first time all over again.. I totally lost my lobster claws. Never wanna take a long break again.
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Postby fresh » Thu Nov 17, 2016 4:56 pm

gazedo wrote:So stoked for Thanksgiving. Really looking forward to 10 days of not thinking about the state of our country every second of the day. Black Mountain (CA) -> Red Rocks (NV) -> Fry Canyon (UT) -> Durango (CO) -> Ortega Mountains (NM) -> Roy (NM) -> Flagstaff (AZ).

my gf got me a month membership to a climbing gym out at red rock as a bday present so i could literally learn the ropes. supposed to be some solid routes out there. lemme know how it goes.
"Proof that I am not an indie rock snob: I really don't like the Shins."
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Postby VHGisdead » Sat Nov 19, 2016 1:19 am

Ondra sent pitches 14 and 15 tonight #dawnwall
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Postby gazedo » Mon Nov 21, 2016 9:46 pm

VHGisdead wrote:Ondra sent pitches 14 and 15 tonight #dawnwall


He sent. So crazy. I don't even have words right now.
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Postby gazedo » Mon Nov 21, 2016 9:47 pm

I was actually really emotional when Tommy and Kevin first sent the Dawn Wall, but in almost every way (but being first) this is much more impressive.
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Postby VHGisdead » Mon Nov 21, 2016 10:47 pm

Man what a fucking beast
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Postby gazedo » Mon Nov 28, 2016 5:18 pm

incoming hipinion, new mexico is the best state in the union for bouldering
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Postby variegated reality » Mon Nov 28, 2016 7:05 pm

Man, I haven't climbed at all in November because of this stupid illness that just wouldn't go away. I think I'm finally up for hitting the gym tomorrow. Can't wait to see how low my stamina is and how soft my hands are.
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Postby gazedo » Wed Nov 30, 2016 2:08 pm

the greatest grading scale:

Image
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Postby gazedo » Fri Dec 02, 2016 12:14 pm

gazedo wrote:incoming hipinion, new mexico is the best state in the union for bouldering


evidence:

Image
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Postby Big Oil » Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:43 am

V4 yesterday :D
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Postby gazedo » Tue Jan 10, 2017 12:39 pm

Big Oil wrote:V4 yesterday :D


Hell yeah!
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Postby Big Oil » Tue Jan 10, 2017 11:40 pm

gazedo wrote:
Big Oil wrote:V4 yesterday :D


Hell yeah!

This shit is so much fun. If it weren't for lactic acid and work I'd be going like 5x a week.
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Postby VHGisdead » Wed Jan 11, 2017 12:08 am

I'm a fucking flabby slug and I'm bummed about it. really gotta find a routine in my new spot
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Postby variegated reality » Wed Jan 11, 2017 2:25 am

Big Oil wrote:V4 yesterday :D


Way to go!
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Postby new blood, » Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:51 am

was worried about some elbow pain I was feeling while climbing, so I started doing some finger/wrist stretches and exercises with a rubber band I saw recommended online
day after and now my elbow hurts doing everyday movements, which is a first.

disconcerting!
i was just going to suggest that maybe everybody should cool out maybe
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Postby gazedo » Wed Jan 11, 2017 11:54 am

new blood, old hat wrote:was worried about some elbow pain I was feeling while climbing, so I started doing some finger/wrist stretches and exercises with a rubber band I saw recommended online
day after and now my elbow hurts doing everyday movements, which is a first.

disconcerting!



a lot of elbow pain originates from improper form in the shoulder. you want your shoulder to remain active in holding your body position. sagging out from the wall will put a lot of stress on your elbow because you are creating an imperfect connection between your hand and body. this post goes into a lot of detail that isn't super relevant, but the positioning photos are good to look at in terms of having good hip turnout to have the body into the wall and engaged shoulders.

https://joshuatreebouldering.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/system-training-part-1/
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Postby gazedo » Thu Jan 12, 2017 5:17 pm

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Postby variegated reality » Thu Jan 12, 2017 5:31 pm

You got any cool trips coming up gazedo?
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Postby gazedo » Thu Jan 12, 2017 5:41 pm

Phils pecker wrote:You got any cool trips coming up gazedo?


lots of local bouldering at Black Mountain (by Idyllwild, CA). headed to New Mexico at the start of February to try and finish up this arete I have become a bit obsessed with. then switching over to ropes climbing in march when it starts warming up. the next big time trip will be this summer, I have a work conference in Paris so hoping to hit up some french limestone sport climbing. :ryan: :ahuh: :awful: :ahuh: :ryan:
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Postby gazedo » Fri Jan 13, 2017 3:07 pm

Oh yeah, looking prime for bouldering this weekend...

Image
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Postby gazedo » Tue Jan 24, 2017 6:56 pm

doing some ski accessed bouldering tomorrow. :barney:
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:32 pm

Are there any Bay Area boarders that want to help me get psyched on climbing again? I am in terrible shape but I will totally carry pads for you or w/e, I just wanna get outside
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Postby variegated reality » Tue Jan 24, 2017 7:55 pm

gazedo wrote:doing some ski accessed bouldering tomorrow. :barney:

Whaaa...tell me more
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