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Postby gazedo » Tue Jan 24, 2017 8:49 pm

Phils pecker wrote:
gazedo wrote:doing some ski accessed bouldering tomorrow. :barney:

Whaaa...tell me more


It dumped 50 inches of snow on my local spot so I am skiing in tomorrow to shovel off the boulders so they will be dry by this weekend. Optimistically hoping I will also get to pull on rock but my guess is this will just be a prep mission. The area is really nice open sequoia trees and sugar pines so even if I don't climb, there will be a few quality turns to be had. I'll report back after the adventure.
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Postby variegated reality » Wed Jan 25, 2017 1:10 am

gazedo wrote:
Phils pecker wrote:
gazedo wrote:doing some ski accessed bouldering tomorrow. :barney:

Whaaa...tell me more


It dumped 50 inches of snow on my local spot so I am skiing in tomorrow to shovel off the boulders so they will be dry by this weekend. Optimistically hoping I will also get to pull on rock but my guess is this will just be a prep mission. The area is really nice open sequoia trees and sugar pines so even if I don't climb, there will be a few quality turns to be had. I'll report back after the adventure.


Is this your spot in Idyllwild? Sounds like a super fun next couple of days
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Postby Big Oil » Wed Jan 25, 2017 1:32 am

Big Oil wrote:Spotlight Kid, just saw you are Bay Area. Where do you climb? I have pretty exclusively used Dogpatch Boulders so far. Gonna get into top-roping eventually.
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Postby Big Oil » Wed Jan 25, 2017 1:32 am

To be clear I don't know the first thing about/have zero experience with outdoor climbing (around the Bay or otherwise).
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Postby variegated reality » Wed Jan 25, 2017 12:33 pm

The left shoe of the pair that I bought back in March was getting a pretty gnarly hole in it. I've only used them for gym climbing and it felt like that was too soon to be degrading so badly so I returned them at REI. Felt slightly guilty because 10 months is kind of pushing it but there were no issues and I basically just swapped the busted pair out for a new pair. I think I really need to pay attention to how I'm using my left toe to try to keep it from happening again.
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Postby Spotlight Kid » Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:46 pm

Big Oil wrote:
Big Oil wrote:Spotlight Kid, just saw you are Bay Area. Where do you climb? I have pretty exclusively used Dogpatch Boulders so far. Gonna get into top-roping eventually.


I haven't been climbing at all :( My shoes are in storage so I kind of promised myself I'd only start again if I was going outside. Otherwise I am not sure I can justify a second pair. Also I live on the peninsula so my options for bouldering are fairly limited.
shark week wrote:She even asked me what we should do about heroin last night. END THE DRUG WAR, mom.
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Postby VHGisdead » Sun Feb 26, 2017 7:36 pm

Margo Hayes sent La Rambla. Love this pic

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Postby gazedo » Mon Feb 27, 2017 3:11 pm

its pretty sick the 9a+ she did is la rambla. really the only 5.15 more famous is realization.
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Postby VHGisdead » Mon Mar 27, 2017 12:35 am

spent the last several months getting fat and out of shape. Finally getting back into a rhythm and hoping to get to Kentucky in early May for a few days. Anybody got any good trips coming up?
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Postby gazedo » Mon Mar 27, 2017 12:52 am

VHGisdead wrote: Anybody got any good trips coming up?


Mt Clark every weekend of April.
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Postby VHGisdead » Mon Mar 27, 2017 12:56 am

fuck yeah
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Postby Brouhaha » Wed Mar 29, 2017 5:35 pm

was thinking of going to the local indoor next month and trying some climbs without using my feet, all arms, probably start with the easier ones

not really a climber but enjoy little challenges
make it mild

weird opinions
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Postby VHGisdead » Wed Mar 29, 2017 6:45 pm

if I'm there I'll be sure to make my best "get a load of this guy" face
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Postby VHGisdead » Wed Mar 29, 2017 7:05 pm

and wear a crossfit t-shirt
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Postby VHGisdead » Wed Mar 29, 2017 7:05 pm

jk do what you wanna do
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Postby Brouhaha » Wed Mar 29, 2017 7:10 pm

I'll probably be wearing some birkenstocks and an old school I'M THE BOSS duck t-shirt
make it mild

weird opinions
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Postby VHGisdead » Thu Mar 30, 2017 10:52 pm

Ugh ramped up my bouldering too quickly with poor skin care regimen, caught myself a big ol flapper tonight
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Postby gazedo » Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:07 pm

mug wrote:Any advice for rehabbing from a mild A2 pulley strain?


what is your level of pain? does opening - closing your hand hurt? does your finger hurt/ is it stiff when you wake up? does pressure under the joint hurt?
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Postby gazedo » Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:12 pm

didn't make it to clark this weekend cause my buddy ended up having to work today so we just day tripped locally. hiked up to this sick pillar boulder I found last year. 10 miles round trip up 3000' in the snow. pretty rough carrying foam all the way up there only to not be able to actually complete the climb but still had a rad day drinking beers in the wilderness and hanging.

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Postby Kaputt » Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:13 pm

Started bouldering sporadically from last July but been going twice a week since January. I think it might be the best exercise I've ever done. It destroys you but it doesn't feel like exercise because you're so busy trying to figure out where the next hold is.

I think I'm at like v2/v3 level which is slow progress but I was heavy as shit and I'm terrified of falling because my ankles are made of glass.

Has anyone introduced a friend to it and have them not enjoy it? I'm at 100% with like 6 people now.
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Postby Kaputt » Mon Apr 10, 2017 2:15 pm

Gazedo your outdoor pictures are always really cool and inspiring. I feel like I'm missing out not climbing outside but not sure I'll ever be ready for it
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Postby crispy pappardelle » Tue Apr 11, 2017 7:41 pm

Brouhaha wrote:was thinking of going to the local indoor next month and trying some climbs without using my feet, all arms, probably start with the easier ones

not really a climber but enjoy little challenges


you're in LA right? Cliffs of Id is my local gym
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Postby gazedo » Tue Apr 11, 2017 8:09 pm

mug wrote:
gazedo wrote:
mug wrote:Any advice for rehabbing from a mild A2 pulley strain?


what is your level of pain? does opening - closing your hand hurt? does your finger hurt/ is it stiff when you wake up? does pressure under the joint hurt?


Pressure under the joint hurts, but general use is fine/no stiffness. I think I got it from a 1-finger pocket and ignored it for a few sessions because at first it would stop hurting after I warmed up. But after a couple sessions of climbing as though I had no injury, it started to hurt consistently during my climbing sessions. Also feels like my hand is somewhat weaker. Internet seems to have conflicting information about everything.


I wrote this to a friend a few months back. It sounds like you are better off than he was so sounds like at least step 1 isn't applicable.

I tore my A3 pulley once, and strained it another time. My understanding is that the treatment and recovery from an A2 pulley injury is probably very similar.

Step 1: rest and reduce swelling
you probably are going to have to take some time off. don't do things that inflame the pulley. if there is noticeable swelling, taking ibuprofin will help reduce that. getting rid of swelling is a big hurdle to get past before you can start healing.
Step 2: promote blood flow in the finger
contrast baths are the best way to do this. put you hand in the coldest water you can without inducing numbness or pain for the duration of a soak (10-15 minutes). this is typically cold water plus a handful of ice cubes. then take your hand out for 10-15 minutes. blood will rush to the cold part of your body as it warms up. repeat this a few times. you can do this as often as you have time for.
get a massage ring and some medium/firm power putty. both of these will promote breaking down any scar tissue that might form and make the pulley weaker in the future. you can start using these immediatly (as long as power putty isn't actually painful).
Step 3: ease back into climbing
It is important to let the pulley rest but not for too long. Once it stops hurting for day to day activities you can start climbing again. try to differentiate between pain from pressure on the pulley (this is ok) and pain from stress caused by finger use (bad). You want to start out on very easy climbing on total jugs that does not stress the pulley. you can begin easing back into normal climbing when you are not feeling any pressure pain anymore.

Does that make sense? Pretty much you are trying to get rid of swelling, then stimulate blood flood to promote healing, massage/exercise finger to break down scar tissue, then ease back into use, progressing forward without doing anything that is painful.

Once you are back into climbing, there are lots of pages on the internet that show proper taping methods to help provide a pulley extra support while climbing.

Hope that helps and good luck!
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Postby gazedo » Tue Apr 11, 2017 8:09 pm

crispy pappardelle wrote:
Brouhaha wrote:was thinking of going to the local indoor next month and trying some climbs without using my feet, all arms, probably start with the easier ones

not really a climber but enjoy little challenges


you're in LA right? Cliffs of Id is my local gym



hollywood boulders > cliffs of id >>>>> LAB
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Postby VHGisdead » Wed Apr 12, 2017 11:47 pm

Bought this at the mall I'm gonna wear this at the mall.
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Postby variegated reality » Thu Apr 13, 2017 10:42 am

crispy pappardelle wrote:
Brouhaha wrote:was thinking of going to the local indoor next month and trying some climbs without using my feet, all arms, probably start with the easier ones

not really a climber but enjoy little challenges


you're in LA right? Cliffs of Id is my local gym


Dang dude, we must have crossed paths at some point. Living in Palms, going to Cliffs...next you're gonna tell me you used to work at Amoeba too!
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Postby crispy pappardelle » Fri Apr 14, 2017 6:28 pm

Phils pecker wrote:
crispy pappardelle wrote:
Brouhaha wrote:was thinking of going to the local indoor next month and trying some climbs without using my feet, all arms, probably start with the easier ones

not really a climber but enjoy little challenges


you're in LA right? Cliffs of Id is my local gym


Dang dude, we must have crossed paths at some point. Living in Palms, going to Cliffs...next you're gonna tell me you used to work at Amoeba too!


I've been to Amoeba!
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Postby VHGisdead » Fri Apr 14, 2017 8:43 pm

DUMBO opening for the season tomorrow, gonna head down for some outdoor gym climbing
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Postby VHGisdead » Sun Apr 16, 2017 11:06 pm

now that I'm climbing again I've realized that it makes fingerprint unlocking much more finicky on my phone. My thumbs are pretty much the only fingers that correctly scan anymore.
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Postby gazedo » Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:56 am

VHGisdead wrote:now that I'm climbing again I've realized that it makes fingerprint unlocking much more finicky on my phone. My thumbs are pretty much the only fingers that correctly scan anymore.


yeah I have never been able to have those work. when I first started grad school I had to do a background check for one of my projects that was NASA affiliated and they got so frustrated trying to fingerprint me. it was kind of hilarious.
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