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Postby Kaputt » Wed Sep 11, 2019 5:31 am

something sensible if wrote:i kinda feel like he's pushed to greatness in spite of her. i sorta understand that mentality. just a guess.


If your partner is holding you back from greatness because she wants unreasonable things like to live in a home with you and to go for ice cream then end the relationship. It's incredibly shitty to treat her like she's holding him back.

Why do you hate her, clouds? From the film and that interview she just seems like a normal person who loves someone that is incapable of giving her the same in return.
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Postby something sensible if » Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:54 pm

it seems plausible to me that she's attracted to him in part because of his celebrity and for being probably the greatest free solo climber of all time. i suggest that it is possibly her desire for him to settle down (into normalcy/mediocrity) that actually pushes him further.
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Postby woozy ducks » Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:59 pm

clouds wrote:



Reading tweets to remind myself never to date anyone that tweets
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Postby woozy ducks » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:14 pm

Christina probably lived her 20s with a record player and a bed and stuff
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Postby clouds » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:25 pm

Kaputt wrote:
something sensible if wrote:i kinda feel like he's pushed to greatness in spite of her. i sorta understand that mentality. just a guess.


If your partner is holding you back from greatness because she wants unreasonable things like to live in a home with you and to go for ice cream then end the relationship. It's incredibly shitty to treat her like she's holding him back.

Why do you hate her, clouds? From the film and that interview she just seems like a normal person who loves someone that is incapable of giving her the same in return.


probably for the same reasons alex honnold hates her, only i would never date anyone i hated and then emotionally abuse them for years out of spite. i'm obviously using hate in a hyperbolic way but i dislike everything i know about her. she doesn't at all seem like someone i'd enjoy being around.

remember the (2) compliments he gave her in the film? she is cute and small so she doesn't take up much space in the van. critiques? dropped me on the rocks, wants a big house, wants fancy appliances, tries to talk to me with her dumb face, isn't ok with me dying etc, thinks it's sad when people die, etc, etc

her personality is grating to me, the way she said ciao and went back to sleep when he did the free solo of el cap has never left my head, her lifestyle 1-800-#vanlife coaching thing makes my skin crawl, i question her motivations for meeting/dating him not only because of how she sought him out but because of the "ciao" type emotional disconnect for him she seems to have. she seems to want him to change things about himself he's obviously doe not want to change. in his defense it seems he was honest about it upfront. but all weighed out i decree he is the bad guy because he is mean to her and she's just annoying. the both seem to dislike a ton of major traits in each other, but he is being shittier about it so the onus is on him to cut the shit out and.or leave her. there's my freesolo speculative goss.
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Postby clouds » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:28 pm

dvr wrote:Christina probably lived her 20s with a record player and a bed and stuff


i don't even know who she is, i was sent that tweet after discussing the article the screenshot is from article with someone.
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Postby woozy ducks » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:32 pm

that article link didn't work for me btw

Edit: nm now it does
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Postby clouds » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:34 pm

http://www.xgames.com/gen/article/27494 ... issue-2019

this is probably the best of the article:

"Do you feel like you've actually changed your level of empathy or do you feel like you've gotten better at anticipating when empathy should come into play?" Sanni asks.

"I'm memorizing my lines," he says
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Postby clouds » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:38 pm

this isn't just a honnold thing, i have know a ton of guys mostly through work that seem to thoroughly hate their girlfriends/wives. it just seems so weird to me. marriages aren't arranged here no one made you live with a woman you dislike.
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Postby woozy ducks » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:41 pm

Him having a girlfriend probably takes quite a bit of attention/focus off himself and makes him more acceptable/marketable. He probably loves this aspect of the relationship
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Postby gazedo » Fri Sep 13, 2019 9:47 am

i would 100% watch every episode of of a reality tv show following the everyday life of alex and sanni. my favorite part of free solo was when they get the house in vegas and go to home depot to buy a fridge and he gets that small one that doesn't fit in his suburban mcmansion. they were at the same crag as some friends and me this winter and i can report they are just as dysfunctional in person as they seem in the media. this probably doesn't say anything great about me, but i am very fascinated / entertained by the interaction of her vanilla personality and his sociopath brain.
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Postby something sensible if » Sat Sep 14, 2019 2:14 pm

nah i'd watch it too

i've been climbing again. i ordered some larger shoes because my left toe has an injury that prevents me from putting much pressure on it. idc if i never get very good at climbing, just want to be able to do it for a long time. actually i just looked it up and it seems that your toes are not supposed to be jammed/curled up into the front of Evolv Defys so i basically am just an idiot who climbed in too small shoes for a long time.
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Postby woozy ducks » Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:28 pm

edit:
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Postby brittle » Wed Nov 20, 2019 5:38 pm

hey dudes. i finally bought shoes and am getting a membership at the local gym tomorrow.

i've been to a 3 gyms so far and have been hitting up a nearby park with a cool little traverse wall a few times a week. i've been sore every single day since i started, and even though i'm 39, i think i got a pretty good shot at getting decent before my joints turn into sand.
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Postby v h g » Thu Nov 28, 2019 12:14 am

Brad Gobright died :(
Bought this at the mall I'm gonna wear this at the mall.
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Postby v h g » Thu Nov 28, 2019 12:34 am

Initial reported details re: simul rapping off an unknotted rope are hard to take
Bought this at the mall I'm gonna wear this at the mall.
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Postby branzino » Thu Nov 28, 2019 12:38 am

Damn. From rappelling off the rope too.
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Postby brittle » Thu Jan 02, 2020 5:03 pm

Three months in, I can barely finish the v1s and can onlydo a single v2 and v3 on the reg, but only because I'm tall and they're both super easy for tall people.

My hands still hurt every fucking day.
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Postby Kaputt » Thu Jan 02, 2020 8:10 pm

brittle wrote:Three months in, I can barely finish the v1s and can onlydo a single v2 and v3 on the reg, but only because I'm tall and they're both super easy for tall people.

My hands still hurt every fucking day.


Nice one! Take comfort in the ones you can do because you're tall - being tall makes a lot of them so much harder (anything with a low start is hell etc) so embrace those ones that you can reach and make them look super easy :D

I was so bad for ages and it hurt like hell every session and I couldn't lift myself up and now I'm still bad and scared all the time but I'm a lot better than when I started and it's just the best thing in the world
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Postby brittle » Thu Jan 02, 2020 8:19 pm

Butt starts are terrible but manageable, anything where I have start my hands like six inches under my center of gravity, then squish up to the wall is still impossible.

Of course if no one's looking I cheat the start and flash the problem, but don't tell anyone.
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Postby brittle » Wed Jan 22, 2020 12:05 pm

month 4: i cleared a V4 i'd been projecting all week and can comfortably climb for an hour. i went to my parents house this weekend and did a little climbing on the cliff in their back yard and realized i'd been climbing rocks since first grade and have literally never been scared on a wall before. really wish i didn't wait until i was old, fat and weak to give proper rock climbing a go, but oh well, going from putty to a vague semblance of fitness is fun too in a way...

my hands still hurt every day, but now it's an exercise ache instead of the old, searing, WHAT THE FUCK DID YOU DO TO US!? pain... kinda just feel like i stretched a new set of tires onto my road bike every day.
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Postby branzino » Wed Jan 22, 2020 12:50 pm

Keep it up brittle! That's awesome.

I've been away from climbing for a few months, partly due to an insane schedule, and partly due to a nagging finger "injury". I'm gonna give it an easy spin today and see if enough time has passed to heal this fucker.
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Postby gazedo » Wed Jan 22, 2020 6:07 pm

variegated reality wrote:I've been away from climbing for a few months, partly due to an insane schedule, and partly due to a nagging finger "injury". I'm gonna give it an easy spin today and see if enough time has passed to heal this fucker.


yeah get climbing on that thing. finger injuries will almost never heal on their own with only rest. you need to treat them like you would say a ligament in your knee, that is with exercises that will re-strengthen them. if its a pulley (likely), you need to figure out the difference between pain from pulling (bad) and pain from pressure (which is the result of scar tissue having built up around the injury point). pressure pain is a not a bad thing and use will help break that scar tissue back down. start really light, only on jugs, for a few weeks and see how things are progressing before potentially starting to grab smaller holds again.
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Postby Snrswaz » Wed Jan 22, 2020 6:13 pm

thornhill wrote:I started climbing at two indoor gyms last year and love it, but have been getting a bit bored with their walls and routes and just the general vibe of doing it indoors. I'd love to give actual outdoors climbing a try, though, or at least do some bouldering. I really have no idea what kind of climbing options are available around here, though. Can you recommend any good sites that list places to climb geographically with difficulty ratings?



https://www.mountainproject.com is the site you want to be using for outdoor
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Postby gazedo » Thu Jan 23, 2020 10:12 am

Snrswaz wrote:
thornhill wrote:I started climbing at two indoor gyms last year and love it, but have been getting a bit bored with their walls and routes and just the general vibe of doing it indoors. I'd love to give actual outdoors climbing a try, though, or at least do some bouldering. I really have no idea what kind of climbing options are available around here, though. Can you recommend any good sites that list places to climb geographically with difficulty ratings?



https://www.mountainproject.com is the site you want to be using for outdoor


mountain projects user interface is made my morons and feels like its from 2005 and stay clear of the forums there but unfortunately, yeah, its the best option to actually find out where something is and how hard it might be.
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Postby brittle » Thu Jan 23, 2020 10:20 am

thornhill, does your gym have any top-rope outings?

the one i signed up for goes out every saturday morning. my long game to getting my foot in the door with the community is to start tagging along on those once i get strong enough.
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Postby shin blood » Thu Jan 23, 2020 12:41 pm

thornhill, whereabouts are you? mountain project is ok, but printed guidebooks are nice to have

brittle wrote:thornhill, does your gym have any top-rope outings?

the one i signed up for goes out every saturday morning. my long game to getting my foot in the door with the community is to start tagging along on those once i get strong enough.

You're probably strong enough already! Just goooo (once it warms up)


I miss living in a place where winter was prime bouldering time. It's too cold and everything is buried under snow here. BLECH.
i was just going to suggest that maybe everybody should cool out maybe
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Postby branzino » Thu Jan 23, 2020 4:07 pm

gazedo wrote:
variegated reality wrote:I've been away from climbing for a few months, partly due to an insane schedule, and partly due to a nagging finger "injury". I'm gonna give it an easy spin today and see if enough time has passed to heal this fucker.


yeah get climbing on that thing. finger injuries will almost never heal on their own with only rest. you need to treat them like you would say a ligament in your knee, that is with exercises that will re-strengthen them. if its a pulley (likely), you need to figure out the difference between pain from pulling (bad) and pain from pressure (which is the result of scar tissue having built up around the injury point). pressure pain is a not a bad thing and use will help break that scar tissue back down. start really light, only on jugs, for a few weeks and see how things are progressing before potentially starting to grab smaller holds again.


Thanks, this is some really good advice. That will also help me practice my patience. And can be a good way to get my stamina back up all the same time. I started doing "voodoo flossing" on it yesterday and the soreness immediately went away. I'm going to keep doing it for a while so we'll see how long term any of that is.

How's your injury/recovery?
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Postby gazedo » Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:14 pm

variegated reality wrote:
gazedo wrote:
variegated reality wrote:I've been away from climbing for a few months, partly due to an insane schedule, and partly due to a nagging finger "injury". I'm gonna give it an easy spin today and see if enough time has passed to heal this fucker.


yeah get climbing on that thing. finger injuries will almost never heal on their own with only rest. you need to treat them like you would say a ligament in your knee, that is with exercises that will re-strengthen them. if its a pulley (likely), you need to figure out the difference between pain from pulling (bad) and pain from pressure (which is the result of scar tissue having built up around the injury point). pressure pain is a not a bad thing and use will help break that scar tissue back down. start really light, only on jugs, for a few weeks and see how things are progressing before potentially starting to grab smaller holds again.


Thanks, this is some really good advice. That will also help me practice my patience. And can be a good way to get my stamina back up all the same time. I started doing "voodoo flossing" on it yesterday and the soreness immediately went away. I'm going to keep doing it for a while so we'll see how long term any of that is.

How's your injury/recovery?


other things that can help stimulate blood flow in the fingers and break down any scar tissue:

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Sensory-A ... NrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality- ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

not sure if you are talking about the knee injury i had almost exactly a year ago or a finger injury I had about 8 years ago. the knee was a partial hamstring tear where the muscle connects behind the mcl, which originally made it look like an mcl injury. i would say it took about 2 months to feel nearly fully recovered from that. but luckily muscles are really resilient. just started with low stress things like biking, then began hiking, then eventually started to climb again after about 4 weeks. another 4 weeks of not pulling with that leg at all (no heel/toe hooking, or toeing in really hard on steep overhangs) before i was able to resume relatively normal climbing practices. for a few more months after that i would come across a high stress heel hook (how i injured it) that i would have to back off of but now i feel totally recovered. the finger injury i had was a lot longer recovery timeline. i tore the the a3 pulley in my right, ring finger. i didn't touch a climbing hold for about 4 weeks, but was doing a lot of exercises to get blood flow in there and have some low stress finger exercises like the putty i linked to. then it was another 4 weeks of only jugs. then a couple months of really easy climbing on smaller holds. i would say it took almost 6 months to feel confident on crimps again. but honestly i came back stronger and healthier feeling than before that injury and had one of my best seasons of climbing that spring (injured it in the early fall).
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Postby brittle » Fri Jan 24, 2020 4:57 pm

i wasn't feeling great today so i went to the gym with just intention of climbing all the easy problems, and focusing on being smooth and quiet with my feet, but when i made it to the last wall, i discovered they had reset everything so i got excited and forgot about my plans and ended up actually FLASHING two V4's.

hell yeah, i'm into this climbing stuff in a big way.
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